This is the smallest Regency lying east of Gianyar. It covers only 121 square kilometers, including three islands: Nusa Penida , Lembongan and Ceningan. Depsite its size, its influence on Balinese culture has been powerful. It was here at the shadow of the holy Mount Agung that the princes and priests of Majapahit gathered in 1343 to continue the kingdom by setting up “Kraton” in Samprangan. But within a couple of generations they moved to Gelgel and then to Klungkung in 1710. In the 16th century, the Gods smiled on Gelgel when Dalem Waturenggong reached an impressive political and cultural achievement to earn his “golden age “.

BUKIT JAMBUL

On the way to Mount Batur, Kintamani, there is a stopover with its very enchanting scenery located parallel to the hill, rice fields and the sea in distance. Restaurants are also available there.

GOA LAWAH

About 43 kilometers east of Denpasar, one of the most sacred temples in Bali which was built in the 11th century by the high priest “Empu Kuturan”. Inside the temple one will find a natural cave inhabited by thousand of bats hanging down from ceiling, flying around, and singing as well as holy python snakes that often appear around the cave.

KERTHA GOSA

These pavilions built in the 18th century are located at the main road intersection side of the town of Klungkung 40 kilometers northeast of Denpasar. They are especially known for their ceiling murals, painted in the traditional “Wayang” style, depicting punishments in hell for miscreants, and higher up on the ceilings you will find the rewards in heaven for those that have led a good and honest life.

NUSA LEMBONGAN

This small island is one of the most a popular destinations for day trippers from Bali. The tripscan takes about one to two hours through the Badung Strait depending on whether you sail or take motor boat. One of the main attractions of the island is diving and snorkeling, with amazing corals and tropical colourful fishes, crystal clear water and white sandy beaches. Lembongan’s larger neighbouring island, Nusa Penida has a somewhat more ominous reputation and less popular.

Called Klungkung for many years the name of this city was changed in the early ’90s to Semarapura, the original and more regal name. This former royal capital is one of the busiest towns in eastern Bali and the main transit point for bemos and minibuses en route to Pura Besakih and points east Padangbai, Candidasa and Amlapura. Bemos cost around Rp 500 from Klungkung to any of these places.

The Tourist Information Office on Jl. Diponegoro, Phone 21448, is open 7am-145 pm, Mon Thurs, until 10 am on Fri and until noon on Sat. Loji Ramayana Palace Hotel Jl. Diponegoro 9 has new rooms which are clean with private showers and sit-down toilets; the ones in the back are simple with shared showers and squat toilets. The restaurant serves Chinese food. $9.50-$16. Across the street and 20m west is Cahaya Pusaka, Jl. Diponegoro 135, rooms facing the garden are nicer, $7-$8. Bali Indah and Sumber Rasa right next to it on Jl. Nakula are the only proper restaurants in town. Good Chinese food.

The post office is at Jl. Surapati, Phone 21010. There is a wartel on Jl. Diponegoro, Phone 21500. Buy essentials at the Tragia supermarket, Jl. Batukaru, The only place for souvenirs is Kamasan village, south of Klungkung. Painters still produce traditional works in the so-called wayang style here. Ask for Nyoman Mandra, or any of his pupils.

Modern painter I Nyoman Gunarsa has opened a museum with his own collection of traditional Balinese painting, sculptures and antiques: Museum Seni Klasilk Gunarsa, Beng, Takmung, Klungkung, Also on display are his own energetic works, usually with dance themes. Look for the huge building with the billboard on the top on the north side of the road. Open 9 am-4 pm, daily except Mon.

There’s an astonishing view just north of Klungkung (actually in Karangasem regency) at Bukit Jambul. There are two Bukit Jambul Garden Restaurants at the best spots across the road from each other. $10 for lunch. Another great setting at the Puri Boga Restaurant just above these two.

Nusa Islands

Nusa Penida, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Lembongan. These three unspoiled islands are southeast of Bali. Boats ply the routes to the islands from Sanur and Benoa (south Bali), Padangbai and Kusamba (east Bali). Most leave by 9-10 am. When travelling from Padangbai, it is advisable to overnight in Candidasa or Padangbai.

There are different take-off points depending on your destination. If you are heading to Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan, where most of the losmen are, then leave from Sanur, Benoa or Kusamba. If you are going to Toya Pakeh on Nusa Penida, leave from Kusamba or Padangbai.

You will have to wade through the water to get on and off the boat and you may get splashed during the crossing. Pack everything in plastic bags and keep a raincoat or poncho handy.

At certain times of the year the sea can be treacherous, full of strong currents, and even whirlpools. Ask locally. During these periods, the voyage is not advisable in a small jukung and it’s safer to take one of the large excursion boats leaving Benoa. Another problem is pricing: the fare is low for locals, but for tourists it’s $7.

Getting to the Islands

From Padangbai. Be there early and register on the beachfront east of the main pier. Boats leave from 7 am-2 pm.

From Kusamba. Take small jukung on the beach, 100 m from the market. When local traders book all the boats it’s difficult to sail from here.

From Sanur boats seating 50 leave from the beach at the end of Jl. Raya Sanur, next to The Grand Bali Beach Hotel and take you to Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan in an hour. Departure: 7-8 am. Boat with two 80 HP engines, life jackets and radio communication is operated by Yayasan Pembangunan Desa Sanur Kaja.

From Benoa join a day-trip tour on a yacht. Contact Bali Camar, the Bali International Yacht Club, Bali Adventure Club, Banina Watersport or any of the companies mentioned in Sanur practicalities. $70-$90 include diving and depend on the condition of the vessel and facilities.

Bali Hai Cruises has daily cruises to Nusa Lembongan. The Beach Club Cruise (9 am-4.30 pm) features swimming and a barbecue lunch at a private club. ($75). On the Reef Cruise (9.30 am-4 pm) the boat ties up to a pontoon in the bay so passengers can play all day. ($90).

WakaLouka yacht sails to Lembongan daily from Benoa at 9 am, returning at 6 pm. $88, includes buffet lunch and use of WakaNusa Resort facilities. Diving available at $45 per dive.

Nusa Penida

In Toya Pakeh, take a bemo to Sampalan terminal (Rp 2,000) where you can charter another bemo for an island tour ($20 unless you are very good at bargaining). To go to Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan either charter a jukung($10) or take a public jukung (Rp5,000).

Nusa Lembongan

Hire a trail bike from Jungut Batu for a tour of the island for $7.50/day. The price is high because there are no bemos. Cross the new bridge to get to Nusa Ceningan. Bird-watchers should check out the cliffs there.