Sanur is where Bali ’s first luxury beach hotel was built over 30 years ago, and has since been the spot for luxurious seaside accommodation. Conveniently located near Denpasar on the main road leading to the east, Sanur is not nearly as frenetic as Kuta, nor as well-mannered as Nusa Dua. Many foreigners have built lavish villas and bungalows here and this is the preferred place for up-market, long-term stays on the island, especially in the BatuJimbar and Blanjong areas.

The main attraction here is the white sand beach bordering a reef-sheltered lagoon. The beach stretches south from The Grand Bali Beach Hotel and ends up in the mangrove marshes opposite Serangan Island . Due to the protection of the lagoon, this beach is one of the safest on the island, and thus perfect for families. There is no surf apart from out on the reef, and one cannot swim at low tide, but at other times this is the best place in Bali for windsurfing and sailing.

Sanur can be divided into several sub-areas:

The Grand Bali Beach Hotel area
West and south of the hotel, at the point where the black and the white sand beaches meet. This northern section of Sanur is popular with local crowds.

Sindhu
Is east of JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai, and south of JI. Segara Ayu extending south to the first stretch of JI. Danau Tamblingan. This area is classier, with good hotels on the beach, night and art markets, and good restaurants.

Batujimbar
Further south, has few hotels, but is the location of expatriate and Indonesian jet set society mansions. Exclusive beaches are reached via small lanes.

Semawang
stretches south from the Bali Hyatt Hotel to the Sanur Beach Hotel and beyond. It houses both the priciest hotels and restaurants, as well as the red light district.

Get to Sanur from the airport by taxi. Tickets available at the airport taxi co-op counter outside customs, near “left luggage”. The set fare is Rp. 60,000 to Sanur.

Within Sanur either rent a car or catch one of the many public bemos that ply Jl. Danau Tamblingan for Rp 2,000. These can be chartered for short hops around Sanur ($2-$3), and for trips to Denpasar or Kuta ($4-$6). Bargain hard. The terminal of the Praja Taxi company is in Sanur, Phone 289191, 289090. Bali Taxi is in Jimbaran, Phone 701111, 701621, 701633. Pan Wirthi Taxi is in Kuta, Phone 723355, 723388, 723952.

Biking around Sanur is also fun. At the Tri Dewi Art shop, JI. Danau Tamblingan 48, in Semawang, you can rent a bike for Rp 15,000/ day; try bargaining. The bicycles aren’t the greatest. It may be wise to pay more by renting through your hotel.

Sanur is an ideal base for trips to Bali ’s rice growing heartland and the mountain areas. Rent a self-drive car or a minibus with driver on a daily basis. There are car rental companies on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai and on JI. Danau Tamblingan. Cars and minibuses for hire are found outside all major hotels, or go through one of many car rental companies.

The most reputable self-drive rental agencies are Avis, which has desks at Jimbaran, in the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and the Sheraton Lagoon Nusa Dua; Bali Car Rental on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai; and Toyota Rent a Car at the airport, Jimbaran, on JI. Raya Airport 99X, in the Bali Padma Hotel in Legian, and Kartika Plaza Hotel in Tuban.

A day-trip in a minibus with a multilingual guide costs around $35, including gas, depending on the itinerary. Group tours cost as little as $10-$15 for the main tourist destinations. Contact Pacto, Tunas Indonesia, Mekar Wisata, or your hotel travel agent.

Private Houses

An alternative to standard accommodations is to rent luxury bungalows owned by affluent foreigners. These can work out relatively reasonably, if food and drink are bought at supermarket prices. Prices range from $250/day for a villa for two, to $1,500/day for a two-hectare beachfront estate with 14 staff, an archery range and use of a game fishing boat

Eating Out in Sanur

The Bali Hyatt, The Grand Bali Beach and Sanur Beach hotels have a wide variety of restaurants, buffets, and coffee shops. The food is mostly European, but they also offer Indonesian, Chinese and Japanese cuisine.

Restaurants outside the hotels offer a greater variety of food in a broad price range. Most close at 10 pm .

The cheapest and most colorful food spat at night is the Sanur Night Market, located in the Art Market. The food is spicy, but nothing is cheaper; you can get a nasi campur for Rp 5,000-Rp 7,500.

For cheap, but better quality local food-the kind of place where your guides prefer to eat go to the street restaurants in Sindhu, on Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai between JI. Segara Ayu and JI. Sindhu. Try Haji Imran’s (sate), Cak Muk or Depot Robby’s (Chinese).

Warung Jawa Barat, on the corner of JI. Mertasari and JI. Kesumasari in Semawang, has a range of Sundanese food from Western Java , such as grilled fish, karedok (mixed raw vegetables in coconut sauce) or sate. Prices are good: between $1-$1.50.

For late-night eaters, Sanur has several moderately priced Padang restaurants open all night. 15-20 spicy dishes are laid out for you to choose from: you pay only for what you eat, so keep track. Cinto Bundo is in Batujimbar, where as Sari Bundo and Murah Meriah are in Semawang, in the midst of the red-light area.

There are two village cooperative restaurants in Sanur. Geared to tourists’ palates, they have the advantage of being located right on the beach, a privilege denied to their competitors. Sanur Beach Market, at the end of Jl. Segara Ayu, is outdoors. Specialties include sate, nasi goreng, fresh grilled fish, grilled lobster; all reasonably priced. Profits from here and the nearby market go to the Sanur village foundation to run schools, clinics and art classes.

Banjar Restaurant is at the end of JI. Duyung in Semawang and offers the same range of Indonesian and Chinese food. The association also rents boats for sailing trips on the lagoon.

Sanur Restaurants

Sanur’s “in” place to eat is the Cafe Batujimbar in Batujimbar. Its hanging vines and sturdy furniture gives it the look of a Riviera roadside cafe. This is the haunt of the local expert colony, many of whom live in the sumptuous Batujimbar Estates just across the road. The cafe offers light, healthy food with daily specials at reasonable prices. Coffee is a specialty.

Koki, on JI. Bypass, is favored by local foreign residents. A pub atmosphere and generous servings of European-style food and billiards, make this a versatile stop. Another simple, yet cozy place, is the Agung Restaurant just before the Semawang crossroad. For all palates, including Australian, European as well as Japanese, at under $5. A similar place, with music, is the popular J.J. on JI. Tamblingan. Those looking for American food should try the Borneo , conveniently located among the trees of A. Sindhu. Open until 11.30 pm. For an Irish flavor go to Tamarind restaurant and bar JI. Merta Sari (next to the British Consul) and try their sausage and mash, cottage pie and other classics from the emerald isle.

Luxury Restaurant in Sanur

Some of the best places for those who want to dine in luxury are found in hotels such as La Tavema (good seafood, brick-oven pizza) and Tandjung Sari. The latter is famous for its Indonesian rijsttafel and its Balinese palace atmosphere. Dine to the strains of a bamboo tingklik orchestra while looking out over the sea, or have a drink in the seaside bar. A romantic spot for dinner by moonlight.

A few stylish places can also be found on Jl. Danau Tamblingan, including Istana Garden in Sindhu, Bayu Garden in Batujimbar and Lotus Pond ( free transportation in Sanur area), in Sindhu, which floats on a pond of lotus flowers, is decorated with antiques and serves great fresh pasta. A Royal Indonesian Buffet (Rjstafel) is available every night. If you want a pleasant Balinese ambiance, try Gazebo’s Kuri Puti, on JI. Danau Tamblingan 35, or Kul Kul, further down the road in Batujimbar. All offer similar fare and prices-menus generally feature grilled seafood. Many also stage dance performances and offer pick-up services.

Telaga Naga (”Dragon Well”), opposite of and operated by the Bali Hyatt, has the best Chinese food on Bali in the most exclusive setting: a lotus garden. Great Szechuan food. Try their chicken with dried chili peppers or the roast duck. Lenny’s on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai was the first Chinese restaurant in Sanur. It features good Indonesian/Cantonese style dishes (very fresh vegetables) at reasonable prices. Sin Bo Lan, or SBL, is a favorite of the local Chinese. Tasty spring rolls. Janur Garden , JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai, marvelous squid and shrimps. Wayang Bali, also on the bypass, offers an international menu of sizzling steaks, delicious pasta, healthy salads and sandwiches in AC comfort. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights.

Trattoria Da Marco’s, in Semawang, claims to serve “the best Italian food on Bali .” Their grilled fish, spaghetti carbonara, bean salad and delicious steaks prove it. Ball Moon makes marvelous lasagna.

Japanese and Korean

These restaurants cater mostly to the increasing number of Japanese tourists. Kite on J1. Danau Tamblingan offers sukiyaki, yakitori and tempura. Ryoshl on JI. Danau Tamblingan 150, is an island-wide favorite for dependable fresh sushi and typical Japanese fare. Chong Gi-Wa features all the standard Korean favorites including kimchee and bulgogi barbequed beef in sweet soya.

Sanur Night Life

A quiet family resort, Sanur is not known for its nightlife, but there are two discos. The Banjar on JI. Duyung, near the beach next to the Bali Hyatt, opens until 2 am , with reggae music on Saturdays. Janger Bar and Disco opens from 8 pm-5 am , I think Janger is now close, but you should check this out.

Kafe Wayang has an innovative Asian menu and a lively jam session on Friday and Saturday nights. Right next door, Jazz Bar and Grill promotes live jazz music every night and features a huge bar, pool table, and a Cal/Mex menu. Both are on the intersection of JI. By-Pass and JI. Hang Tuah and are open to 2 am .

The Bali International Sports Bar, next to Borneo on JI. Sindhu, is a popular spot for expats with its western menu and live satellite sport broadcasts on the big screen.

Sanur Dance Performance

Sanur is just a short taxi ride away from Denpasar and Batubulan, where barong, keris, fire, and kecak dance performances are held regularly. Contact a travel agent. Most hotels offer Balinese buffet dinners with dance performance for about $15 a head. A number of restaurants offer similar shows at lower prices.
Sanur Shopping

Tourist shops line all the main streets of Sanur. Although there is more choice in Kuta and Legian, prices are similar if you bargain well. Otherwise, go to the arcades in the main hotels for high quality goods and no bargaining

Books. The main hotels and photo centers on JI. Danau Tamblingan have P range of guides to Bali and Indonesia in English and other languages. Also try Kita Bookshop at Café, Batujimbar, and Klik Klak Studio, next door, for coffee table books on Indonesia and postcards.

Clothing and Batik. Kartika Chandra Batik Center and Serasa Batik Collection on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Tohpati, west of Sanur, sell a complete range of high quality but expensive batiks. For fancy clothing, Nogo Ikat Center has two shops along JI. Danau Tamblingan at no. 98 and no. 208, selling elegant, hand-woven ikat designs. Shoes, handbags and accessories from natural textiles are available at Miranda Inti Alami, JI. Hang Tuah 43, across from the entrance to The Grand Bali Beach Hotel.

White embroidered dresses are available at Bali High, JI. Danau Tamblingan at the JI. Karangsari intersection, Uluwatu JI. Danau Tamblingan, and Mama & Leon, JI. Danau Tamblingan 99A. Raffiesia, on JI. Danau Toba sells leather clothing. Imba Leather City sells fashion bags, shoes, and garments, and makes to order at JI. Danau Tamblingan 8, near JI. Danau Toba. For high fashion, try the major hotel arcades.

Food. Gelael Dewata Supermarket on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai is the place for imported cheeses and meats, as well as general toiletry items. Alas Arum, JI. Danau Tamblingan, has a wide selection of imported goods and sometimes has wine and spirits. Many other general stores in Sanur such as Bagus Store and ABC Store offer cold beer and soft drinks at a fraction of hotel prices.

Home Furnishings. For decorative objects go to Bali Curious Goods on JI. Danau Tamblingan 94, next to Bayu Garden Restaurant. For creative ceramics, try Café Batujimbar’s ceramic shop on JI. Danau Tamblingan or visit the factory outlet across the street in Batujimbar Estate. Pejaten at Griya Market has decorative plates, cups, etc.

Jewelry. Suarti Designer Collection, JI. Danau Tamblingan 69, is well-known for export quality silver jewelry.

Paintings. For good genuine contemporary painting, go to Wianta’s, JI. Pandu, 300 meters from the Renon junction, on the road to Denpasar. Souvenirs. The Sanur Beach Market has a good range of inexpensive gift items. JI. Danau Tamblingan has dozens of shops selling local handicrafts: textiles, carvings, paintings, leather, and silver goods. Eden has rattan-leather items such as purses and pencil cases.

Serangan (Turtle Island)

Serangan Island was labeled for some major development projects until the political and economic turmoil of recent years put everything on hold. Unfortunately this was a little too late for the island which had been completely cleared and leveled in preparation for the proposed development. Although the village and turtle farm still exist, the rest of the island is nothing but a flattened wasteland. There is only one advantage to all this-there is now road access, via a man-made causeway, off the Sanur By-Pass (opposite Macro Supermarket) to the former island and the famous surf breaks just offshore. Email me at Lisa@baliforyou.com if youre interested in visiting this island

Sanur activities: water sports

You can find almost every watersport imaginable here. Most of the facilities are found right on the beach in front of the big hotels such as The Grand Bali Beach, Segara Village and the Bali Hyatt. The excellent Blue Oasis Beach Club at Sanur Beach Hotel rents Hobiecats, Lazers and windsurfing boards. Courses for those wishing to learn windsurfing are also available.

Sanur offers diving and snorkeling, although not the best in Bali . There are several agents that organize trips. In Sanur, Bali Marine Sports on Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai. Baruna Sport has beach booths in front of The Grand Bali Beach and the Bali Hyatt. Surya Water Sports is at JI. Karang Sari 1, offering diving, parasailing, banana boat, glass bottom boat, jet ski, Turtle Island , and dolphin tours. The beach counter is on JI. Duyung.

The only operator specializing in tours to Komodo Island is based in Sanur and has a fully equipped dive boat running charters on request for a minimum of five passengers. They also organize several one day and charter excursions east of Bali , diving packages and charters. Grand Komodo Tours, JI. Hang Tuah 26, Sanur.
Besides the charter services offered by various tour agents, Spice Island Cruises, JI. Padang Galak 25, Sanur, offers 3and 4-day luxury cruises aboard the 140-passenger Bali Sea Dancer and the 120-passenger Oceanic Odyssey. Departs every Mon and Fri, includes stops on Sumbawa , Komodo (and Lombok with the 4-day trip). Rates, including cabin, food and Komodo tour, start at about $500 per person.

Sanur beach ceremony

To appreciate the beach from a more Balinese perspective witness the daily ceremonies that take place along the shore: cremations, reduction and presentation of offerings, ritual bathing, among others. Inquire at the beaches and dress appropriately (no swimwear) to attend.

Banks: Bank Dagang Negara at Bali Hyatt (Phone 281234). BDB at intersection of J1. Bypass Ngurah Rai and JI. Sindhu. Bank Desa Sanur, JI. Danau Buyan (Phone 288246), JI. Sudamala (Phone 288402) in front of the Grand Bali Beach .

Money Changers: PT Dewi Segara at Gelael Supermarket, J1. Bypass Ngurah Rai at Turismo Indonesia , JI. Danau Tamblingan 85, across from Café Batujimbar.

Post Offtes: Most hotels provide postal services. Post office at JI. Danau Buyan, open daily 8 am-2 pm. Closed Sun. There are small post offices next to Sanur Beach Hotel and Café Batujimbar. Go to Denpasar’s main post office in Renon for full services.

Telecommunications: Citra Agung, JI. Danau Tamblingan (Phone/fax: 288864/5) and Anggar Ari Agung, JI. Danau Tamblingan 174 (Phone 288020, fax: 285035).

Massage: After a long journey around Bali , have a Japanese shiatsu massage at LG Club Sehatku. Sauna, steam, whirlpool, Indonesian herbal lulur baths are also available.

Medical Treatment: If there is no medical service in your hotel, see Dr Anak Agung Made Djelantik at JI. Hayam Wuruk 190, near the Renon crossroads. For a dentist, see Dr. Retno Agung at JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai close to the intersection with JI. Danau Buyan.